1989 Vieux Chateau Certan
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Tasting notes
‘ Mild and dry until late February. Budding occurred three weeks earlier than usual. It rained for 24 days out of 30 in April, causing some millerandage and coulure. June had mild weather, resulting in good flowering. June was very hot and quite stormy. The summer was dry and hot, similar to 1947, with Merlots reaching 13% potential alcohol. Ideal harvest conditions with high yields. ’ 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlots reached 13% potential alcohol. Final alcohol 12.5%. The first time they picked in August. Glowing ruby. Fresh overlay. Spicy, layered nose that’s really quite intriguing. Then lively and fresh and revitalising. Not as heady and rich as I’d expected though it builds towards the end. Certainly displays VCC’s left-bank refreshment character. Mild tannic imprint. Clean and racy rather than opulent. But good persistence. Sweet and refined but slightly drying out on the end. (JR)
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The 1989 Vieux Château Certan was an early picking from August 31 after the Merlots reached 13% alcohol, then regarded as a high level. It shows modest brick on the rim. This vintage appears to have matured faster in recent years. Indeed, I have fonder memories of this in the noughties. Loose-knit red fruit, tea leaves, light touches of mint - it does improve and cohere with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It's a little compact and doesn't "flow" like the best Right Banks in this vintage. It just cuts away a little abruptly without your leave. The bottle poured the previous October at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner was far superior! Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.
Over a dozen or more bottles, the 1989 Vieux Château Certan has proved to be Alexandre Thienpont's wine of the decade. This has a lovely bouquet with mulberry and cedar, a touch more mint than I recall and almost a pastille-like quality. That Earl Grey element develops with time. The palate is sweet on the entry, very well balanced and poised, showing more concentration and grip towards the garrigue-tinged finish that fans out wonderfully. This is probably at its peak now. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at 67 Pall Mall.
The 1989 Vieux Château Certan has long been one of my favourite vintages of this era, although this is not the best example. The nose has more intensity than the 1990 with plenty of red fruit, melted tar, Earl Grey and light rose petal scents wafting from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, plenty of substance, though this bottle feels more mature compared to the previous one tasted, with fungal notes towards the finish. Not bad, but on this occasion, it is outclassed by the 1990. Tasted at the Vieux Château Certan dinner at La Trompette.
About the producer
The original Château at Vieux Château Certan dates back to around 1770 but the modern history of the estate begins in 1924 - the year that Belgian wine merchant Georges Thienpont purchased the property.