1985 Vieux Chateau Certan
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Tasting notes
‘The Garonne almost froze in January as the year began with a cold spell. A cold, changeable and rainy period until June, just in time for an even flowering. The summer was hot with occasional rain in August. It was dry and warm for the harvest around 25 September with high volumes and good healthy grapes.’ Last vintage made by Alexandre’s uncle Georges. Alexandre’s father Léon died in early 1985, with Léon worried about the cold spring. Alexandre assured him the vines had not been frosted and then he died. Not chaptalised and only 11.8% alcohol (cf 1982, which was chaptalised). Mid ruby with a pale rim. Sweet and frank on the nose. But quite low-key. Floral and sweet though not that complex. Frank is the word. Fairly light-bodied. But nicely balanced and fresh. Though not that long. (JR)
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The 1985 Vieux Château Certan was made by George Thienpont after his brother, Léon Thienpont, died. Before he passed away, he asked his son Alexandre if the vines were growing after the cold winter, fearing a 1956. Against shareholders' wishes, it saw the introduction of a second wine, La Gravette. This vintage was not chaptalized, hence the 11.8% alcohol after being picked on September 25. After the first bottle was corked, the second bottle was called for. It has an open-knit bouquet, light brambly red fruit, sous-bois and gravel. Modest complexity. The palate is simple, and my main criticism is that it lacks the flesh and the corpulence that makes this vintage so enjoyable. The 1985 is perhaps a victim of being born during the passing of the baton. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.
Fully mature, yet a wine that opens up nicely with time in the glass, the 1985 Vieux Château Certan has a lovely, sweet perfume of red and black fruits, spice, forest floor, and leafy tobacco. This elegant, pretty, perfumed Vieux Château Certain is medium-bodied, has resolved tannins, and solid length on the finish. It certainly not going to get better, but this classy Pomerol offers ample pleasure.
The 1985 Vieux Château Certan is perhaps nearing the end of its drinking plateau. The mellow, loam-scented nose is a little loose-knit, and perhaps it can be seen as a lesser version of the 1989. I want more intensity, but make do with gravel and dried blood aromas that develop with aeration. This is not a deep or powerful Pomerol, but it conveys a sense of warmth, with a hint of black truffle on the finish and melted tannins. The 1985 is perfect to drink now, I would not be inclined to keep it too much longer.
About the producer
The original Château at Vieux Château Certan dates back to around 1770 but the modern history of the estate begins in 1924 - the year that Belgian wine merchant Georges Thienpont purchased the property.