1966 Vieux Chateau Certan

‘Alexandre’s Thienpont’s father Léon’s first vintage. In the 1960s, only three vintages proved extraordinary: 1961, 1964 and 1966. Like the other two, 1966 corresponds to the grape percentage of the vineyard at the time: 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. Mild winter. Early spring. Fine weather for flowering. Summer cool and dry except for rainy July. Hot, sunny September. Harvesting under perfect conditions early October.’ Deep crimson. Seductive nose. Slightly drying out on the end but waving a very fine farewell. It became a bit tart in the glass. Slightly loose-textured and transparent. Very appealing initially. (JR)

The 1966 Vieux Château Certan was picked from early October after a Second Summer in September. This is a paradigm of the 1966 vintage with a Cabernet-driven bouquet, cedar and tobacco, black rather than red fruit, linear and correct. There's just a hint of chimney soot. The palate has a citrus-fresh entry, almost Pauillac-like thanks to the Cabernet components, bright and slightly edgy, yet it is unapologetically conservative. If you want an example of a mature classic Pomerol, then look no further. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.

The 1966 Vieux-Château-Certan was unfortunately oxidized, which seems to be rather common apropos this vintage, though I include here another tasting note from a recent dinner. It is fully mature on the nose with scents of game, warm gravel and cigar box notes. It misses the fruit intensity of say, the 1961 or 1964 Vieux-Château-Certan. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic tannin, like previous bottles just a little smudged in the mid-palate with the Cabernet Franc imparting a slightly attenuated savory finish. Bottles should be consumed in the near future.