2008 Griotte Chambertin

Explosively bright in its aromatic and gustatory evocation of fresh and spirituous black fruits and distilled herbal essences, the Roty 2008 Griotte-Chambertin is loaded with mineral nuances suggesting peat, crushed stone, iodine, and alkali, and it finishes with palate-shaking intensity. Firm but finely-tannic, this energy-packed grand cru should challenge your wits and palate for the next 15-20 years. Philippe Roty insists that because of his rigorous canopy-management and green harvesting, plus a further late summer crop-drop, rot was not the problem for him in 2008 (or for that matter in 2007). But ripeness, he readily acknowledged, was. “In 2008, we simply lacked 8 or 10 days of sunshine,” he concludes, admitting that he harvested his lesser terroirs first (beginning September 23) and his grand crus last. “Which would you want to make sure ripens, Bourgogne or Charmes Chambertin?” he asked with a rhetorical laugh. This reversal of normal procedure – when taken together with the cautious extraction Roty felt committed to buy unripe pips – resulted in a 2008 collection that is mildly disappointing in its lowest echelons and among village Gevreys, though the Marsannays continued to offer considerable interest for their modest prices, whereas they were decidedly weaker partners in 2007. (Since the 2008 hail in Marsannay hit largely in the Chenove direction, it had little effect on Roty’s locations.) Tasting at the press and halting pressing as soon as bitterness or under-ripeness were detected was, says Roty, another critical factor in rendering satisfying 2008s. Malos – other than two stubborn whites on which Roty simply gave up! – finished here on a normal schedule at the end of their first winter, and thus in no way compromised his plan to as usual bottle the wines in April. I tasted in late February a pre-assemblage set aside for me two weeks in advance of my visit because in the meantime all of the lots had been sulfured in barrel. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Dark red. Pungent aromas of wild berries, violet, musky minerality and crushed stone. Silky on entry, then expands in the middle palate, filling the mouth with mineral and floral perfume without leaving any impression of weight. This builds impressively on the back end, finishing stony and fine, with lingering perfume. Not as generous in texture as the Mazis but more detailed and nuanced today.

By contrast, this is notably more sophisticated with elegant and very pure red pinot fruit that is nuanced by hints of wood spice, violets and an exotic tea nuance that serves as a flourishing introduction to the rich, round and equally refined middle weight flavors that don't possess the power and punch of the Mazis but are instead blessed with still more complexity on the mouth coating and impressively persistent finish where a distinct tang surfaces. My range reflects mild caution due to this acid pop because overall, this is more interesting at present than the Mazis. Allen Meadows, Burghound Jan30,2010