1995 Griotte Chambertin

One of the extraordinary benefits of my job is that generous wine lovers open stunning wines for me just to see if I still like them as much as I originally did. I've tasted this wine on five (!) separate occasions since my original review was published (it was rated 96-99+ from a barrel sample in Issue #111). This is a mesmerizing wine. It is dark ruby colored, almost inky black, with bright streaks of purple on the edges. Aromatically it reveals an unreal depth of intense black fruits that give way to an explosion of black cherries, plums, blackberries, blueberries, violets, mocha, cafe au lait, sweet oak, and Asian spices. Wave upon wave of luscious fruit unfold on the palate in this opulent and hedonistic offering's velvety-textured core. Perfectly balanced and harmonious, intense yet soft, structured yet supple, it is a tour de force. Wow2! Anticipated maturity: 2002-2010. Bravo! What remains to be said about this wine crafted by the shy, self-effacing, and ever-smiling Claude Dugat? Well, it might be getting even better. While still having the opulence of fruit and suppleness that have made his wines renowned throughout the world, this wine appears to have more structure. My instincts have, in the past, been that Dugat's wines were best drunk young, but this wine displays the necessary balance between fruit, acidity, and backbone for extended cellaring. Perhaps Jean-Marc Joblot, the extremely talented Givry producer, said it best: "Claude Dugat's 1996s are the most beautiful expression of Pinot Noir I've ever had." A taster would have to be dead not to fall in love with these wines. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.