1993 Griotte Chambertin

It is symptomatic of the Burgundy minefield that a vintage that has been recklessly promoted as a "great" year (when, in fact, there are too many astringent, austere, angular, thin-tasting wines for "greatness"), has also produced some astonishing Burgundies that are as compelling as any I have ever tasted. Dugat's Griotte-Chambertin is a religious experience, and not because it was made in a historic abbey/wine cellar. The color is an intense, saturated ruby/purple. The nose is classic, offering a penetrating fragrance combining profound quantities of red and black fruits, with toast, earth, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, with the essence of Pinot Noir distilled to its naked purity, this phenomenally intense, velvety-textured wine possesses exceptional fruit extraction that has been buttressed by sweet, ripe tannin. It is absurdly rich and seductive, yet also powerful and structured - a tour de force in wine-making! The 1993 is an even greater wine than Dugat's 1990. It should be cellared for a few years, but anyone lucky enough to latch onto a few bottles from the 100+ cases made may not be able to wait; it should last for 10-20 years. As the ratings attest, Claude Dugat, working in his 13th century abbey/wine cellar called Cellier des Dimes, hit several home runs in the 1993 vintage. His whole berry fermentation provides more fruit, but in his modest manner, Claude takes no credit for what are once again profound red Burgundies. No wonder when Lalou Bize-Leroy purchased wine for her negociant firm, she made this cellar one of her frequent stops. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083