1998 Chateauneuf du Pape

Not one of winemaker Andre Brunel's favorite vintages (although I'm a fan), the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals a surprisingly youthful, lively ruby color to the rim to go with classic notes of dried Provencal herbs, cured meats, kirsch, leather and exotic spices. These carry to a full-bodied, ripe, concentrated Chateauneuf du Pape that's fully mature, yet still has plenty of fruit, sweet tannin and a big, low acid, decadently styled finish. It's a big, hedonistic Chateauneuf to enjoy over the coming couple of years.

Dense and meaty, the 1998 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape shows a compact profile on the nose with thick black fruits, licorice, and earth. With additional air, more garrigue, wild herb, and fennel notes emerge. Medium to full bodied on the palate, with a rich, full feel through the middle, and a good finish, this shows hints of maturity but still has plenty of stuffing to keep it going for another 2-4 years, if not longer.

Good deep red. Sappy, complex aromas of redcurrant, graphite, smoked meat and leather; distinct note of confiture. Dense, sweet and very concentrated, but not at all hot or over the top despite its 15% alcohol. In fact, notes of menthol and licorice give this superripe wine terrific grip and verve. The 8% syrah component brings freshness, says Andre Brunel, while the sizable mourvedre content (20%) is the source of the licorice aspect. There will also be a Cuvee Centenaire but it was just reaching the end of its fermentation in November!