2004 Barolo Brunate

The estate’s 2004 Barolo Bricco Rocche reveals an expansive, generous personality. Macerated cherries, spices, vanilla, tar and smoke develop as this pretty, sumptuous wine opens in the glass. Silky tannins and a resonating note of sweetness from the oak carry through to the long finish. The Bricco Rocche still sees 100% new oak but Ceretto is contemplating a shorter aging regime. The 2005, which had just been taken out of oak at the time of my visit, was fresher than the 2004 and seemed to benefit from less time in barrel. (AG)

Ceretto's 2004 Barolo Brunate is made in a very quirky style. This silky- textured Barolo reveals a liqueur-like quality to its super-ripe cherries, menthol and sweet toasted oak. Slightly advanced aromas and flavors and its moderate concentration suggest it may not be especially long-lived but it is a pretty wine to drink now over the next seven to eight years. Even though oak levels have been reduced in recent years, this spent 30 months in barrel and appears to be the Ceretto Barolo least suited to an extended period of oak aging.

Ceretto’s 2004 Barolo Brunate is made in a quirky style. This silky- textured Barolo reveals a liqueur-like quality to its super-ripe cherries, menthol and sweet toasted oak. Slightly advanced aromas and flavors and its moderate concentration suggest it may not be especially long-lived but it is a pretty wine to drink now and over the next seven to eight years. Even though oak levels have been reduced in recent years, this spent 30 months in barrel and appears to be the Ceretto Barolo least suited to an extended period of oak aging. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200