2008 Barolo Brunate

The 2008 Barolo Brunate is gorgeous. An open, beguiling bouquet redolent of Christmas cake, plums, menthol and licorice melds into an expressive core of dark fruit. The mystery and allure of Brunate is on full display. The 2008 was quite open just after bottling, but it has begun to shut down since then. Both times I have tasted it, the wine has been translucent, weightless and yet powerful at the same time. In other words, the embodiment of what makes Barolo one of the most fascinating and complex wines in the world. Simply put, this is textbook Barolo from La Morra's top vineyards. The 2008 Brunate is steeped in class, but readers will have to be patient.

The 2008 Barolo Brunate is gorgeous. An open, beguiling bouquet redolent of Christmas cake, plums, menthol and licorice melds into an expressive core of dark fruit. The mystery and allure of Brunate is on full display. The 2008 was quite open just after bottling, but it has begun to shut down since then. Both times I have tasted it, the wine has been translucent, weightless and yet powerful at the same time; in other words, the embodiment of what makes Barolo such a fascinating and complex wine. Simply put, this is textbook Barolo from one of La Morra’s top vineyards. The 2008 Brunate is steeped in class, but readers will have to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Proprietor Manuel Marchetti brought in his fruit in mid-October. The Baroli were fermented in cement and steel, and were then aged in oak casks for two years. Marcarini remains one of the best values in traditionally made, cellar-worthy Barolo. Both of these wines are fabulous. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Bright red. More reticent nose hints at cherry and menthol. Deep and juicy but youthfully imploded; showing more soil complexity than the La Serra but closed, even medicinal, today. Finishes longer and more tannic. As tightly wound as it is at present, it's not at all hard. Lay this classically styled Barolo down.