2005 Gewurztraminer Heimbourg SGN

If you regard the level of ripeness exhibited by Zind-Humbrecht’s Heimbourg Pinot Gris S.G.N. as formidable, then consider that the 2005 Gewurztraminer Heimbourg Selection de Grains Nobles (from the lowest, most-protected portion of that vineyard) made it all the way to 12% alcohol and still retains 240 grams of residual sugar! Here too, the level of acidity was exceptionally high by any standard. “The only drawback,” remarks Humbrecht, “is that the production is only 1000 half bottles from a hectare.” Exhibiting more peach and apricot preserve yet, paradoxically, slightly less litchi or brown spice in the nose than the corresponding Pinot Gris, this also offers a honeyed, candied pink grapefruit note reminiscent of Scheurebe. In the mouth, one is confronted with a viscous elixir so intense and sweet it almost blinds one to flavor or textural nuance. The overall impression is somewhat candied but there is still levity thanks to powerful acidity. Butterscotch and anise join the honey-drenched, caramelized peach, apricot and litchi in a sweet finish that followed me even when it was high time to get on with tasting the next wine! Not only is this likely to flourish for a quarter century or more in the bottle, I really wouldn’t care to revisit it for at least a decade, by which time the sweetness will have toned down, and the flavors and textures will become more differentiated – and probably downright magical. Olivier Humbrecht compares his 2004s with 1992. These were the two most copious vintages of recent times, delivering truly dry wines with quite high acidity. Although he characterized 2004 as more precocious than 2005, Humbrecht kept harvesting through early November, insisting that this was only possible due to his stringent, biodynamic viticultural practices and consequent generally healthy fruit. Humbrecht insists too that he did not seek botrytis, as rain was rendering noble rot nearly impossible. But it certainly seems sometimes as if botrytis sought out him! One price for his protracted harvest was elevated alcohol, which some wines struck me as hard-pressed to gracefully support; and acid levels too occasionally reached extremes. Overall, in fact, I have never tasted such a wide rage of quality nor so many unusually distinctive and at times downright inscrutable wines at this address as those of 2004. Two thousand five, relates Humbrecht, brought ample botrytis, especially with Pinot Gris, but later ripeness, again with formidable acid and extract levels thanks to the cool, well-watered August. Nearly all of the Riesling musts fermented dry. Humbrecht considers it a classic vintage for (in most instances dry-tasting) Gewurztraminer. And despite the blanket of rot that descended on the Pinot Gris vineyards, a cold, virtually cloudless five day period permitted patient and rigorous selection of fruit. A tribute to the ripeness and high tartaric acidity of these 2005s is that although well more than half of his lots of Riesling and Pinot Gris underwent malolactic transformation, an experienced taster would be hard-pressed to identify which! “Had we had the challenging October of 2004 in 2005 as well,” he says, “most ‘04s would be better than the ‘05s.” But as things turned out – October 2005 having been the second warmest after 2001 in the last decade – Humbrecht believes that in the long run these two collections will prove well matched in overall quality. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724