1996 Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres

The magnificent Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrieres possesses a complex, honeysuckle, and grilled oak-laced nose and a powerful, precise, pure, and refined attack. Layer upon layer of flint, minerals, and stones are found in its intricate, highly-focused, medium-to-full-bodied, masculine, and elegant personality. This wine requires patience as its formidable acidity and structure demand cellaring. It should be at its best between 2004-2010. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A slender, serious, and obviously dedicated man, Jacques Carillon loves the structure and ageworthiness of his family's 1996s. He compared the aging of a wine to a wave, saying the optimum time to drink it is during its crests. He feels his '96s will be in the trough of the wave between 2000 and 2001, and should hit their first crest between 2003 and 2005. I tend to agree with his assessment, and will add what this modest man did not: these are absolutely fabulous examples of elegant, mineral-packed Pulignys that will offer years of enjoyment to those lucky enough to acquire them. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.

Steely, minerally, lime-scented nose. A distinct step up in intensity: citric and penetrating but with superb fat and richness. Powerfully structured for aging. Finishes very strong and long, with a suggestion of mineral dust.