2007 Barolo Falletto

(white label): Good deep red. Perfumed, complex nose melds plum, red cherry, mocha, tobacco, wild herbs and spices. Sweet, silky and seamless, with almost painful intensity to its fruit if not yet as complex in the mouth as on the nose. Healthy acidity accentuates the wine's perfume. Finishes with very suave tannins and outstanding floral persistence. Said Dante Scaglione: "I thought 2007 in Serralunga would be great from the moment of the harvest."

The 2007 Barolo Falletto is an overachieving wine, even at this high level. The bouquet has a level of delineation, sweetness, inner perfume and nuance generally only found in Giacosa's Red Label Riservas. The Falletto impressess for the intensity of its dark fruit and superb overall balance. The extroverted personality of the vintage is quite evident, especially as the wine sits in the glass. Menthol, flowers and licorice add the final notes of complexity on the finish. This is an especially racy Barolo from Bruno Giacosa, but the trademark elegance is there.

The 2007 Barolo Falletto is an overachieving wine, even at this high level. The bouquet has a level of delineation, sweetness, inner perfume and nuance generally only found in Giacosa’s Red Label Riservas. The Falletto impresses for the intensity of its dark fruit and superb overall balance. The extroverted personality of the vintage is quite evident, especially as the wine sits in the glass. Menthol, flowers and licorice add the final notes of complexity on the finish. This is an especially racy Barolo from Bruno Giacosa, but the trademark elegance is there. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. My annual tasting with Bruno Giacosa encompassed all his 2008s and 2009s, plus the 2000 Baroli and Barbareschi, which will be covered in a subsequent article. Vintage 2008 and 2009 are both interesting, but don’t look to be as consistent across the board as 2007. Never one to say much, Giacosa is quite reserved and even severe with his own wines, with the exception of the occasional wine that crosses his lips and elicits a ‘this is good.’ A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620