1998 Leoville Las Cases

The 1998 Léoville Las Cases is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet colored with a touch of brick, it delivers pronounced, beautifully pure crème de cassis, blackberry preserves and prunes scents with an undercurrent of cigar box, licorice, pencil lead and hoisin, plus a touch of espresso. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has impressive richness and depth, coating the mouth with velvety tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and spicy. Still very youthful, this wine is in that sweet spot where it has considerable evolution and yet bags of fruit. Drink it now and for the next 20 years+.

Harvested under rainy conditions (1998 was great for the Right Bank and much more difficult for the later ripening Left Bank), the 1998 Léoville Las Cases offers a complex, nuanced, and elegant style that lacks some ripeness yet stays classic and balanced, with no green or off flavors. Cedar, lead pencil, currants, leafy herbs, and ample spice notes all emerge from this medium to full-bodied Saint Julien that has fine tannins, a seamless texture, and terrific elegance. Drink it over the coming decade or so.

The 1998 Léoville Las-Cases is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc. This is fresh and lively on the nose, quite backward and certainly one of the most “undeveloped” of the 1998 Left Banks that I tasted. I appreciate the delineation on display here, the black fruit opening with time, secondary scents of seaweed, pencil lead and a touch of truffle emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, plenty of taut black fruit laced with iron and that beguiling marine-like tincture that runs from start to finish. This is a solid Las-Cases and 20 years of age that probably still needs another four or five years in bottle. Excellent and moreover and it improved with aeration after a two-hour decanting. Tasted at the château.