1988 Sassicaia

The 1988 Sassicaia is a vintage that I have not tasted for many moons. It is sublime, albeit not one for those seeking the horsepower of the 1985. Showing little maturity in color, it has a divine bouquet, classically styled, almost Médoc-like with dark berry fruit, wild strawberry, cedar and a splash of espresso. Say 90% Bordeaux and 10% Tuscany? The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, beautifully balanced and fairly understated in style, restrained even. Yet it conveys unerring weightlessness in the mouth allied with a sense of composure and stylishness. Very Bordeaux-inspired on the finish, this sublime Sassicaia is drinking perfectly now.

The 1988 Sassicaia is among the most interesting wines made in this decade, although it does not surpass the high-performing 1986, 1985, 1984 and 1982 editions. The bouquet opens to savory tones of barbecue smoke and mesquite wood with cured meat, beef jerky and even a touch of white chocolate. The oak element is evident and has never fully integrated, despite the many years of beauty rest this wine has accrued in the sleepy cellars of Tenuta San Guido. Those exotic hickory or cedar wood characteristics give this wine unique definition. This was a very hot vintage and you can feel the weight of that ripe fruit. I have shortened the drinking window accordingly.

Very dark and glowing ruby. Very ripe and assertive and almost right bank-like. Hint of meat extract. Sweet start and very lively – very marked acidity in fact. Racy and sweet and yet with real distinction and wonderful juiciness. Not too hot on the end. Really on the cusp of ancient and modern styles. (JR)