2004 Barolo Arione

The 2004 Barolo Arione stands apart from Boglietti’s wines from La Morra. A powerful, sinewy wine, it captures the essence of this Serralunga vineyard in its autumn leaves, iron, licorice, tar and dark fruit. There is plenty of richness and depth as well, but the wine possesses an additional level of brute force and thrust. This, too, is a beautifully expressive wine loaded with personality. As is the case with Boglietti’s other Barolos in this vintage, the Arione develops nicely in the glass. Ideally a few years of cellaring are warranted, but my impression is that some of the wine’s tannins may never melt away completely. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Enzo Boglietti makes some of the richest, most deeply-flavored Barolos in Piedmont. In recent years his wines have acquired an additional level of complexity and clarity. These 2004s are his finest wines yet. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Good dark red. Exotic red berries, truffle and nutty, chocolatey oak on the nose. Fat, silky and sweet if a bit youthfully undifferentiated. There's a liqueur-like aspect to the sweet, rich black raspberry flavor, as well as a hint of floral lift. Finishes with big but ripe tannins and very good length.