2011 Graham

Bright, deep, saturated ruby. Liqueur-like ripeness to the deeply fruity aromas of kirsch , black raspberry and cassis. Thick, sweet and seamless, with a silky texture and great depth to its utterly primary dark berry and spice flavors. Wonderfully pure, intense young port with outstanding finishing sweetness, well-judged oakiness and big, ripe, noble tannins. Leaves behind exhilarating kirsch and violet notes on the extremely long finish, with a note of bitter chocolate emerging with extended aeration. This fleshy beauty boasts beautifully managed tannins and outstanding aging potential.

The 2011 Graham’s comes from the five quintas that have been the source for many years (Malvedos, Tua, Vila Velha, das Lages and Vale de Malhadas). It represents a selection of the 131 pipes from a total production of 1,454 and is a blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 31% Touriga Franca, 6% Sousao and 23% mixture of very old vines. It has a more “serious” bouquet compared to the Dow, with beguiling scents of blackberry, wild hedgerow, tobacco and cloves. Straight-laced, very well-defined and compelling, the palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and supremely well-judged acidity. It is utterly harmonious, with a pure core of ripe black cherries, damson, marmalade, clove and spices, and the finish lingers long in the mouth. The separation of “The Stone Terraces” vines certainly does not appear to have detracted from a great Graham’s. 5,000 cases declared. Tasted May 2013. Importer: Premium Port Wine; www.premiumport.com

They say they have worked very hard to avoid mouthpuckering tannins. Managed quite differently even though the IPT is as high as it's ever been. Meaty and concentrated. Really covers the palate – full width. Seems drier than most of the components on the finish but thoroughly exciting and complete. Spicy and noble. Minerally finish. (JR)