2011 Chambertin

(vinified with 50% whole clusters): Deep red with ruby highlights. Very ripe, dark aromas of blueberry, huckleberry and graphite. Dense, sappy and highly concentrated, with black fruit, mint, pepper and mineral flavors displaying terrific definition and energy. In its intense minerality and inner-mouth tension this vibrant wine reminded me of a 2010. Finishes with outstanding length. Should age slowly and gracefully over the next 15 to 20 years.

The 2011 Chambertin Grand Cru includes 40% whole-cluster fruit like the Mazoyeres. It has a more reticent bouquet than its fellow grand crus at this stage, demanding more encouragement to reveal its black and red-berry aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with good weight on the entry. I like both the structure and symmetry here, while it has good persistency on the balsamic-tinged finish. Sleek and stylish, though it needs to divine a little more in the way of personality. Drink 2016-2030. Importer: DNS Wines LLC – www.dnswines.com (CA) and also Lea & Sandeman, Justerini & Brooks and Berkmann.

Ruby-red, a bit less saturated than the Clos de Beze. A wild, meaty essence of Gevrey on the nose, offering scents of smoky dark berries, mulch and game bird. Silky on entry, then supersuave and seamless in the middle, showing cooler soil notes of licorice, pepper and stony minerality. Powerful, dense and sappy; ultimately quite closed but very light on its feet, with the peppery character carrying through the wine. Finishes very long and tannic, with superb grip. A real vin de garde. Perrot-Minot notes that these vines are between 60 and 65 years of age, vs. about 50 for the Clos de Beze.