2009 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst

A slightly soapy feel and considerable heat from 14.5% alcohol detract from the pleasures of Josmeyer’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Hengst, which despite harboring only 11 grams of sugar displays distinct sweetness thanks to its combination of high glycerin and low acidity. Bacon fat, brown spices, and litchi convey a familiar picture of this grape, and quite possibly this big-boned, soft exemplar would exhibit less buffering or persistence were it not for the quality of its site. I would want to revisit this in a couple of years but suspect it will favor drinking within the next half dozen. Jean Meyer, his daughter Isabelle, and son-in-law Christopher Ehrhart were clearly challenged by the 2009 vintage in their efforts to obtain dry or judiciously sweet and elegant wine of the sort that is this estate’s long-term signature, but they managed to successfully tread a fine line with a great many of their bottlings – not quite all of which I had time to taste – and some wines usually offered weren’t attempted or weren’t bottled this year. Jean Meyer has never favored late harvest and his natural inclination to pick sooner in 2009 certainly did not sacrifice ripeness of flavor. The 2008 vintage was also mixed in success, a fungal overtone in certain wines bound to at best be controversial; but the most successful (principally Rieslings) outstanding and likely to age well. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900