2007 Richebourg

Liger-Belair’s 2007 Richebourg manages the trick of projecting ancient vines density and grip with an uncanny sense of levity and elegance. Smoky black tea, bitter chocolate, peat, game, cassis, and plum cavort on a rich, lushly-textured palate, finishing with dynamic interaction and an at once soothing and stimulating effect. This should be worth following for a decade or more, but unlike in so many vintages, I do not see the need to defer the huge pleasure of this Richebourg’s company. Thibault Liger-Belair was bullish on his 2008s – and for good reason, pointing out that for him, the challenge of rot was significantly greater in 2007. That said, his collection from the latter vintage is impressive of its kind, too, and I concur with his assessment (a far more conservative one than I heard from many growers) that the best 2007s should be worth following for a decade, but probably not much longer. He felt confident in both 2007 and 2008 to utilize stems and whole clusters extensively in fermentation, as is his wont whenever he deems it possible. Most of the Thibault Liger-Belair 2008s had been bottled a month before I tasted them – a late start on bottling by the standards he has thus far set. Liger-Belair says he has now settled into a biodynamic regimen for all of his vineyards, after having first tried out certain methods on property he acquired in the Hautes-Cotes in 2004. He opines that among other things these methods have rendered the vine wood more supple, which permits elevating and expanding the canopy without shading the fruit or risking wind-snapped branches, and he believes this expansion was critical to the measure of ripeness he was able to achieve in the prolonged, breezy late innings of 2008. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Ruby-red. Subtly complex, soil-driven nose combines redcurrant, plum, smoked meat, minerals and crushed stone; at once ripe and wild. Then silky-sweet and perfumed in the mouth, with a positive hint of youthful bitterness giving the middle palate a sappy quality that's refreshing for the year. Not a particularly black or powerful style of Richebourg but boasts terrific layered texture and energy and really saturates the entire mouth. The very long, taut finish displays an ineffable soil character. An outstanding 2007, made from 70-year-old vines.

Good deep red. Brooding cassis and raspberry aromas are lifted by a pungent minerality. Dense, sweet and powerful, conveying an impression of great concentration and energy. Not yet exuberant in the middle palate but explosive on the very long aftertaste, coating the cheeks and molars with flavor. This boasts great vivacity for the vintage.