2002 Richebourg

(like the Clos Vougeot, this was aged in 90% new oak) Medium red. Deep, sappy aromas of cherry, menthol, flowers and tobacco. Penetrating, aristocratic and gripping, with great nervosite Seems much more primary in the mouth than on the nose, with cool mineral and purple fruit flavors. Firmly structured, young and very long. This also needs a good six or seven years.

This too displays noticeable oak influence but it's a bit more subtle because the wonderfully expressive nose of black pinot fruit and spice aromas offer more of a backdrop for the wood. The flavor profile is intense, seductive and spicy with a wonderfully textured and velvety character to the big, rich, forceful flavors of uncommon depth and astonishing length. I underestimated this marginally from barrel and the '02 Riche is long and very stylish and is a clear notch up from the otherwise extremely impressive Clos de Vougeot.

(this was sulfited two weeks before my visit, while the Clos Vougeot had had six weeks to recover) Medium red. Strongly mineral aromas of raspberry, smoked meat and lead pencil. Dense and silky but with superb clarity of flavor. Like a cocktail of exotic berries in the mouth, with a strong minerality leavening the wine's pronounced sweetness. Wonderfully sappy and long. Extremely long, classy Richebourg that should reward six or seven years of cellaring.