2002 Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon

(from fruit harvested at a normal 13% potential alcohol, but then left to dry on racks in the style of an Amarone) Ruby-red. Aromas of currant, woodsmoke and roasted herbs. Sweet, lush and slightly truffley; offers a distinctly glyceral mouth feel and captivating sweet fruit flavors. Not your normal cabernet, and yet the flavors are true to the variety. Finishes very long and rich, with sweet tannins.

Bottled six months ago, the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Serpico is allegedly made in the style of an Italian Amarone. Because of that, I expected to see more prune, raisiny, and tar-like aromas and flavors. In reality, the fruit was air-dried for seven weeks, resulting in considerable dehydration which rachets up the level of intensity as well as concentration. There is no doubting that this is a seriously built, full-throttle Cabernet Sauvignon on steroids. It offers a tremendous nose of new saddle leather mixed with creme de cassis, tobacco smoke, and a hint of spicy French wood. With great intensity, power, and richness in addition to surprisingly good balance, it can drunk now because of its seamless integration of acidity, tannin, and alcohol. This fascinating effort should last for 10-15 years. Importer: Benjamin Hammerschlag, Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 923-1376