1996 Chambertin Clos de Beze

This magnificent, dark ruby-colored wine possesses awesome aromas reminiscent of cookie dough covered with blackberry syrup, violets, and roses. Powerful and masculine, yet elegant and refined this gem has a complex, concentrated, and deep character that displays layer upon layer of ripe red and black fruits intermingled with stones, earth, and minerals. Loads of soft, ripe tannins can be discerned in its prodigiously long finish. It may very well be the finest red I've yet tasted from Bruno Clair. Projected maturity: 2003-2008. Bruno Clair described this vintage as abundant (he says his Marsannays averaged 40-45 hectoliters/hectare and his other vineyards averaged yields in the 35-40 h/h range) and perfectly healthy as not a trace of rot was spotted. He went on to say that his '96s have as much as 4 grams per liter of acid, the highest level he has ever seen in Burgundy. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.