2009 Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts Christiane
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Tasting notes
The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts Christiane is pure seduction. Last year I wrote that in 2009 there wasn’t a huge difference between the straight Malconsorts and the Christiane. That was true then, but it is no longer the case. With time the wines have begun to show their respective terroirs, and are now quite different. The Christiane possesses dazzling richness and power in an extroverted, expansive style that is absolutely irresistible. There is so much fruit that the perception of tannin is virtually nonexistent, but there is plenty if structure for the Christian to age well for many, many years. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. Etienne de Montille’s 2009 reds have developed beautifully since I last tasted them about six months ago. De Montille was among the very first growers to harvest in 2009. At the outset de Montille’s 2009s were a bit awkward, but today they have come together better than I expected. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Good full red. Darker on the nose than the "regular" Malconsorts, with a strong soil character to the aromas of black fruits and flinty, smoky minerality. Bigger and denser than the Malconsorts but also more saline and earthy, and less open to inspection today, as its fruit sweetness is in the deep background. These two wines are remarkably different, with the Christiane displaying a much more muscular, powerful style and finishing with serious tannins. I should add that this very backward wine is also a bit hardened today by CO2, which makes it trickier to taste.
About the producer
Volnay’s Domaine de Montille is one of the most historic in the Côte d’Or. Founded in 1730, the property remains family-owned and run, with Etienne de Montille – the ninth generation – at the helm today.