2007 Le Montrachet

From the site’s Chassagne side, Jadot’s 2007 Montrachet smells like an essence of fresh apple and quince laced with brown spices, lily, and narcissus; detonates on the palate with an energetic interplay of fruit, flowers, spices, and chalk; and finishes with an uncanny sense of lift to accompany its creamy richness and sheer extract. This extraordinarily seductive, liquidly floral essence should be worth following for at least a dozen years, but unlike so many of its appellation, one does not have the feeling it would be a crime – much less a disappointment – to pop a cork already in 2010. Jadot is one of those addresses where I confess to having feared that the combination of this vintage’s marked impression of acidity and relative leanness with Jacques Lardiere’s love of precision and merely selective use of malo-lactic fermentation might result in a dearth of sensual appeal. And he is the first to admit that a relatively high proportion of malic acidity was present in 2007, along with a danger of vegetal notes. But Lardiere took most of his 2007s all the way through malo, and my fears were at worst marginally realized. An overarching caveat is that these wines received higher dosages of sulphur (25 versus 15 grams) at bottling than those of other recent vintages, and will – Lardiere opines – take longer to shake off a certain pungency or hardening, but it did not find that alarming. As usual, I could not take time to taste all of Jadot’s many bottlings, which are less numerous this year, in any case, than in 2006. Incidentally, the first vintages of Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse under Jadot’s ownership and Lardiere’s direction – on which I shall report at a later time – are tremendously successful, preserving and even elevating critical elements of the personality that has long wines from that estate so memorable. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300