2003 Le Montrachet

(from a normal crop level of about 32 hectoliters per hectare) Complex aromas of minerals, wet stone, menthol and smoked meat. Fat, lush and silky, with terrific thickness of texture but also noteworthy verve. Very rich, deep flavors of pineapple, minerals and spices. Broadens out impressively toward the back, and finishes with explosive length. One of the richest and longest 2003s I tasted this spring.

The most obviously wooded wine in the range with pronounced pain grillé notes highlighting gorgeously complex, moderately ripe white flower, green apple and pear aromas that merge seamlessly into generous, pure, powerful, taut and sweet full-bodied flavors that display a wonderfully silky texture and huge length. This quite transcends the vintage and despite the size, weight and ripeness, it reminds me rather of a hypothetical blend of the '02 and '03. In short, this is a knock-out wine that should see its 20th birthday in great shape. Allen Meadows-Burghound 01/07/05

Perhaps the finest white Burgundy produced in 2003, Dominique Lafon’s Montrachet, would be a show-stopper in even the greatest vintages. “I couldn’t believe it, nothing affected those vines, and the yields were identical as in 2002 (30 hectoliters per hectare).” Sweet minerals ensconced in a myriad of spices are intermingled with poached pears in the aromatics of this majestic, exceptional wine. This liquid satin of a wine slithers onto the palate, expands, and unleashes waves of roasted minerals, sage, bacon, spices, pears, and buttered toast. Medium-bodied and noble, it displays an unreal finish that lingers for a minute offering additional flavors of creamed hazelnuts, hints of sweet limes, and spiced apples. It is a tour de force of terroir and winemaking! Projected maturity: 2007-2018. Apr 2005, www.robertparker.com