1991 Le Montrachet

The 1991 Le Montrachet is not an easy wine to evaluate. The color is significantly deeper than that of the Meursaults. There are scents of over-ripe apricots and oranges, in addition to minerals and honey. Full-bodied, high in acidity, with massive weight, but a disjointed personality, this wine looks to be magnificent, but idiosyncratic. An immensely impressive wine, it will be controversial. I would not touch a bottle for at least 5-6 more years; it will easily keep for 20-25. Lafon's 1991s are the wines of the vintage. Modestly, Lafon says he took some unnecessary gambles by waiting out the rains and picking late, harvesting fruit that was not diluted. The results are splendidly rich, full-bodied wines with amazing intensity. They are as exceptional as the 1990s, and superior to Lafon's 1988s, 1987s, and 1986s. Average yields were 25 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 55-70 at other domaines. Lafon rarely filters his wines. In 1991 he put most of the cuvees of white wine in the bottle with neither fining nor filtration. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA.