1989 Le Montrachet
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Tasting notes
The 1989 Montrachet Grand Cru is a vintage that I have not encountered before. It has a powerful nose with walnut, crème brûlée, white chocolate, dried honey and quince. There is a tang of bitterness on the entry, great depth and a fine line of acidity. However, I feel that this is either at its peak or entering a downward slope after 28 years. Poured at the same time against Coche-Dury’s 1992 Meursault Les Perrières, the Montrachet begins to oxidize after 45 minutes, whereas the Meursault soars. As such, I lower my score and recommend, since it has nothing more to give, to drink bottles sooner rather than later. Tasted at Tour d'Argent restaurant in Paris from a bottle purchased on release.
Critic scores
Average Score
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Robert Parker
More reviews and scores
Mature, incredibly ripe, outright exotic aromas of melon, spice and a beautiful touch of minerality lead to big, rich, massively structured flavors underpinned by just enough acidity to hold the balance together. This has arrived at peak maturity though it will continue to hold without difficulty.
The 1989 Montrachet, of which there are about 60 cases, is closed. Lafon says it needs a minimum of 10 years of cellaring. The steely, mineral aromas of its bouquet are reminiscent of the Meursault-Perrieres. In the mouth, there is awesome concentration, surprisingly high acidity for the vintage, and exhilarating definition and length. I am not sure it will ever offer the drama and opulence of the 1989 Meursault-Charmes, or the intensity of the 1989 Meursault-Perrieres, but it is an extraordinary effort from the Comte Lafon. Importer: Classic Wines, Brookline, MA.
Mature, incredibly ripe, outright exotic aromas of melon, spice and a beautiful touch of minerality lead to big, rich, massively structured flavors underpinned by just enough acidity to hold the balance together. This has arrived at peak maturity though it will continue to hold without difficulty. Allen Meadows- 01/04/03