1992 Le Montrachet

There are four barrels of the 1992 Le Montrachet, but according to Noel Ramonet, "two will be declassified." Wouldn't you like to be the lucky recipient of some of that wine? The two barrels that will be estate-bottled come from 70-year old vines. It is an awesomely rich, full-bodied, massive wine oozing with fruit and that distinctive steely, mineral-like Montrachet character. As usual, the price will be astronomical. This magnificent Montrachet will drink well for 15-20 years. As a sidelight, while discussing Noel Ramonet's favorite Le Montrachets, he proceeded to open the 1978, the only vintage of Ramonet's Le Montrachet that I had never tasted. The wine exhibits a deep golden color, but is extremely austere and backward. It appears capable of lasting another 15-20 years. It is one of those wines that is impressive more for its structure and potential longevity than for its depth of fruit or hedonistic virtues. The 1990 and 1983 Le Montrachets are Noel's favorites. He feels the 1982 should be consumed (I agree). Moreover, he thinks 1982 and 1989 are better than 1986 (I disagree). Because the Domaine Ramonet enjoys a mythical status it is fashionable to criticize the wines as not being as exceptional as they used to be. Don't fall for this line of thinking. This domaine produces some of the finest Chardonnays in the world. While other domaines have begun making superb wines over recent years (i.e., Amiot-Bonfils and Colin-Deleger), and others have always made wines as profound as Ramonet, in particular Michel Niellon, the name Ramonet still carries with it a magical significance. If there is any criticism to be leveled, it is that vintages in the late eighties and early nineties appear to possess high acidity. The domaine adamantly denies doing any acidification. Ramonet made excellent 1992s, and very good 1991s that are worthy of serious buyers' interest. Importer: Chateaux and Estates, New York, NY.