1989 Le Montrachet

Initially a bit reticent though it didn't take long for the nose to explode from the glass with dazzlingly complex aromas that are still wonderfully fresh and exuberant with simply unbelievable complexity. The big, rich, powerful, intense and chiseled full-bodied flavors offer superb depth and beautiful acid balance with stunning length that just goes on and on. A great Ramonet Montrachet that will continue to age in this format for years.

The 1989 Montrachet (of which there are 2 barrels from 70-year old vines) attained a natural alcohol level of 14.8%. So much for those oenologist's wines made within safe technical parameters! I realize few readers will ever get a chance to taste this wine, but as you can imagine, it boasts unbelievable concentration and viscosity. It is not as thick and unctuous as the Montrachet made by the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, but it does possess exquisite balance and length. All things considered, I would wait 10 years before popping the cork. It will drink well for at least the first two decades of the next century. For those Hollywood superstars and multi-million dollar athletes that might be readers, Ramonet still thinks his 1986 Montrachet is the best of the decade, and considers 1989 the pretender to the throne. Sooner or later most white burgundy lovers make the pilgrimage to the village of Chassagne-Montrachet and pay a visit to the Domaine Ramonet. Legendary wines frequently emerge from these cellars and for that reason, only the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti's Montrachet sells for a higher price than that of Ramonet. However, other wines in their portfolio often make a more sensible purchase. Importer: Chateau and Estates, New York, NY.