1996 Le Montrachet

Ultimately, the show-stopping Montrachet may merit a perfect score. Ethereal mineral, floral and spicy oak aromas are followed by an incredibly rich, awesomely deep, elegant and full-bodied personality. Layers of oily-textured honeysuckle, white pears, concentrated liquid minerals and buttery oak roll over the palate; the intensely long finish reveals traces of rock and limestone dust. This magnificent, benchmark wine has all the components to age effortlessly. Projected maturity: 2004-2015+. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Anne-Claude Leflaive, this famed estate's director, and Pierre Morey, its winemaker, are justifiably excited about their 1996s. Some of their lots had 14% natural alcohol potential, yet huge acidity levels. Morey said that the malic and tartaric acid levels were even at harvest, an unprecedented occurrence in a ripe vintage in Burgundy. Like his colleagues at other domaines, he attributes the high levels of malic acid to the cool temperatures that were present in late summer and early fall. Madame Leflaive added that the estate's policy of hoeing the vineyards forces the vine's roots deep into the soil also increases acidity levels. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.