2008 Robustus

The 2008 Robustus, Niepoort’s oldest brand (although the 1990 was unreleased), is an old vines blend (largely Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Sousao and Rufete, as emphasized by the winery), aged in old, large 2,000-liter wood for 42 months. It was vinified with 70% of the stems. With the treatment this wine gets, this is obviously the outlier of the Niepoort lineup, something deliberately intended to have a very different feel. The long wood aging gives it a dramatically different character and flavor profile, plus it has more tannic pop and depth as well. Crisp and pointed in this vintage, it is full-bodied, mouth coating and flavorful, but the different profile and treatment will certainly make it stand out in this lineup. It was astonishingly jarring tasting it next to Niepoort’s other, more subtle and graceful reds. That said, in its own context is hardly a monstrosity or anything of the sort, so don’t misunderstand. There is no overkill here. The oak is older and there is no drenched-in-vanilla aspect, for instance. The alcohol is only 13.5%. There are certainly plenty of wines made in the world that are far bigger, thicker, less balanced, far more astringent and less restrained. Indeed, the next day this actually showed elegance and good acidity, notwithstanding muscle and reasonable concentration. It is a very fine example of a 2008. I loved the way it continued to develop in the glass on Day 2, when I started liking it more and more. This should age pretty well, too. It certainly will benefit from the right food match, aged beef or the like. I tried it that way as well. Suddenly, nothing was even a little out of place whatsoever. It’s a big winner in the 2008 vintage. Drink now-2027. Niepoort’s 2010 Tinto releases are successful in the context of this vintage. This 2010 vintage is also a good year to troll at the lower end of Niepoort’s red lineup. The less heralded wines show surprisingly well. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel. (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565