2011 Crozes Hermitage Thalabert

Vivid purple. Heady aromas of fresh dark berries, violet, woodsmoke and black pepper, with a zesty mineral nuance adding urgency. Juicy, penetrating and lively in the mouth, offering intense black and blue fruit flavors and a touch of floral pastilles. Silky tannins give shape to the long, smooth, appealingly fresh finish. (Incidentally, the 2010 Thalabert is long on potential and short on immediate gratification right now, judging by how it tasted this winter. Its tannins are to the fore and even an hour in a decanter didn't do much to loosen them up; patience is essential for now.)

The 2011 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is an outstanding blend of 100% Syrah that spent 12 months in new French oak. Medium-bodied, rich, textured and downright sexy on the palate, it offers up impressive aromas and flavors of blackberry, raspberry, bouquet garni and spice. Approachable and already delicious, it should continue to drink nicely for another decade. Since 2006, owner Caroline Frey has been steadily pushing for increased quality at this historic estate. Moving all of the vineyards to sustainable farming (which takes years to see benefits), both the vineyard and cellar staff have been doubled. In addition, a new gravity operated cellar was set up in 2010. All of this shows, and across the board, the wines have impeccably made, clean and pure profiles. Looking at the individual Northern Rhône appellations, this estate produces four Hermitage (La Chapelle, La Chapelle Blanc, Le Petite Chapelle and Les Chevalier de Stérimberg), four Crozes Hermitage (Domaine de Thalabert, Domaine Mule Blanche, Domaine de Roure and Domaine de Roure Blanc), one Côte Rôtie (Domaine des Pierrelles), one Cornas (Domaine de Saint Pierre), one Saint Joseph (Domaine de la Croix des Vignes) and one Condrieu (Domaine des Grands Amandiers). Looking at 2011, Caroline stated that it was easy to get ripeness, and harvest was early to avoid heat stress on the grapes. Of the three most recent vintages (2011, 2012 and 2013), 2011 had the highest yields, with both 2012 and 2013 seeing a significant drop. I was able to taste a number of these wines twice, once in a larger lineup covering the individual appellations, and again at a tasting at the domaine, with Caroline and oenologist Jacques Desvernois. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Bright purple. A heady, exotically perfumed bouquet displays dark fruit preserves, vanilla and candied flowers. Sappy and seamless on the palate, offering fresh blueberry and cassis flavors and a hint of smoky minerals. Rich but animated, with good finishing clarity, spiciness and gentle tannic grip.