1990 Crozes Hermitage Thalabert
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Was any better Crozes ever made? Possibly the 1978 Thalabert. But this bottle, with masses of bottle deposit, shared at Selhurst Park with two California 1990s, was in stunning condition. Blackish ruby and clearly ageing but still vibrant with sweet, peppery, still concentrated fruit – much denser than most northern Rhône wines made today. Still marching on – quite as good as many an Hermitage. Very recognisably of its area. (JR)
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Robert Parker
Jancis Robinson MW
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An absolutely stunning bottle, on the list at Galvin Bistro De Luxe in Baker Street, London for around £100. Glossy, true, liquorice and leather but with wonderful fruit still. Enormous complexity. This was a celebratory family dinner and our son Will took a sniff and blurted out 'Bill Baker's bacon bread'. There was certainly more than a hint of smokiness about it, as well as lovely richness. Shame there doesn't seem to be any on sale in the UK. The Rare Wine Co of California is offering it in bottle and magnum. (JR)
The 1990 is an unqualified winner. My instincts suggest it will easily eclipse the 1978. The 1990 exhibits a huge, roasted Syrah nose and the massive power produced by the hot sun and drought of this vintage. It has also benefited from an unbelievably long 40-day maceration. The huge, smoky, superripe nose of herbs, coffee, and cassis is followed by a densely packed, authoritatively rich, nearly massive, surprisingly well-balanced wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. Last tasted 12/95.