2009 St Joseph

The Chaves have a parcel called Bachasson, but in 2009, the fruit was all blended together, resulting in a fabulous 2009 St.-Joseph. Stunning notes of crushed rocks, black raspberries, sweet cherries, licorice and a liqueur of granite-like character emerge from the aromatics and flavors of this full-bodied wine, which also has admirable purity, focus and freshness. This is a great example of what one of the most conscientious people is doing in St.-Joseph, an appellation clearly on the ascendency. This 2009 should drink well for 10-15 years. Don’t be surprised to see Chave’s St.-Joseph rival Guigal’s Vin des l’Hospices or Chapoutier’s Les Granits. Adding to their acreage in St.-Joseph, the Chaves purchased the famous Clos Florentin Vineyard a few years ago. I suspect they will make a single vineyard wine from this site in the future. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Chave has a second estate St.-Joseph that comes from schist soils. The 2009 St.-Joseph Bachasson offers ripe black cherry and berry fruit as well as a distinctive minerality. Although lighter than the St.-Joseph from the Clos Florentin site, it is an impressive red that should drink nicely for a decade or more. (Not yet released) Tasting through the different Hermitage vineyards (including Peleat, Les Beaumes, Meal, l’Ermite and Les Bessards), the lowest score any of these lots received was 94-96 (Les Beaumes). The other parcels all merited 97-100 points. The most dominant component part of Chave’s red Hermitage comes from Les Bessards, which many consider to be the greatest vineyard on Hermitage Hill. The next largest is Meal, a vineyard with a more southerly exposure. While Chave has not made their special cuvee, Cuvee Cathelin, since 2003, I suspect one will emerge from the different lots of Les Bessards that I tasted as 2009 is certainly a year where enough wine can be culled out for the Cathelin without sacrificing the monumental quality of the regular Hermitage. This looks to be one of the wines of the vintage, which is not surprising given the fact that the Chave family has more experience than just about anybody in the winemaking world (the domaine was founded in 1481 - nearly a decade before Christopher Columbus discovered America!). Importer: David Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel (213) 483-5900

From Chamolon: Cherry and red berries on the nose and palate, with a hint of smoky herbs. From Chalaix: Bright, energetic and pure, with racy red berry character and intense minerality. From Les Oliviers: Sexy raspberry and cherry preserves on the nose. Sappy and sweet, with expansive red fruit flavors and an exotic gingerbread quality. From Le Clos, 60-year-old vines: Redcurrant and raspberry aromas, with strong spiciness and building florality. Very pure and racy, with excellent finishing cut. From Le Clos, century-old vines: Deeply pitched red fruits and candied flowers on the nose and in the mouth. Alluring floral and spice notes linger on a strikingly bright, focused finish. From Bachasson: Deep cherry and blackberry aromas, including notes of singed plum and licorice. Dense, chewy and masculine, with solid finishing grip and tannic structure. From Dardouille: Ripe, pungent and smoky, with lush dark fruit compote flavors and notes of bitter chocolate and licorice. "A Cornas look-alike" according to Chave. The final wine, or wines is/are extremely promising, with a compelling blend of richness and energy. By the way, get ready for a lot of Saint-Joseph rouge from Chave, possibly including some single-vineyard bottlings, as the estate holdings have been dramatically increased with the purchase of the 5.5-hectare Domaine Florentin and its 4-acre Clos Florentin, in Mauves and on granitic soil. Chave's holdings in Saint-Joseph now total more than 12 hectares, which is slightly less than they own of Hermitage.