2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese

Technically known as the Weinguter (“wineries ) Wegeler, as they also have enormous holdings in the Rheingau with their press house in Oestrich, the team last year came under the direction of Michael Burgdorf (formerly of Freiherr Heyl) after Oliver Haag left to take the helm of his family's Fritz Haag winery. The 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese offers an aroma like that of a noble Norman cider. In the mouth, the site-typical apple and vanilla are joined by honey and caramel for an effect of enormous richness and creaminess of texture, yet also genuine delicacy. Vivacity or minerality are not what the opulently sweet 2005 Spatlesen chez Wegler are about, but this displays more elegance and interplay of flavors than the others in the collection, and would almost certainly blossom further over 15-20 years, as it sheds some fat and sweetness. Also recommended: 2005 Bernkasteler Doctor Erste Lage (unknown; 85+?), 2005 Bernkastler Badstube Riesling Spatlese feinherb (unknown; 86). Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463