2009 Chablis Moutonne
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Tasting notes
The 2009 Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne is more open on the nose compared to the 2010 and 2011, with scents of candle wax, Alpine stream and oyster shells, though I probably prefer the delineation exhibited by the 2010 at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine, apricot-tinged entry with just a hint of spice. This offers fine harmony and tension and a very focused finish, although I am just seeking a little more complexity and acidic bite. Still, this is a pleasurable Chablis for drinking over the next decade. Drink now-2021. I spent a morning at Vinexpo attending a mini-vertical of Chablis Moutonne, a monopole of Domaine Long-Depaquit owned by Maison Albert Bichot. It is not an officially recognized Grand Cru since the family never registered the name. Duh! It is actually located 95% in Vaudesir and 5% in Preuses, though the domaine has permission to use the “Moutonne” name on the label. It is a small, south-southeast facing amphitheater on kimmeridgian soils and 25% of the crop is vinified in oak barrels and matured in used oak, up to five years old.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Pale bright yellow. Sexy nose melds peach, apricot, lavender, wet stone and complex soil tones. Brighter and more layered than the Vaudesirs, with strong terroir character shining through. Good sappy young wine with excellent energy and length. Regisseur Mangenot noted that acidity levels in 2009 were roughly equal to those of 2006 (i.e., in the 3.5 to 3.7 grams-per-liter range), while the 2010s are typically around 4.1.
Delicate, linden blossom and mineral notes. Creamy and lighter on the palate than I expected but lovely purity with all the wet stones you could wish for. Tightly furled, building to greater density on the finish. (JH)
Yellow fruits, crushed stone, menthol and a whiff of smoke on the nose. Voluptuous, round and quite suave, with sappy spice and stone fruit flavors. Conveys an impression of density without weight. Builds impressively on the back half, finishing saline, spicy and very long. More pliant than the 2008 version was at the same stage, but not quite as complex.
About the producer
Although the Bichot family settled in the region in 1350, Albert Bichot was founded in 1831 by Bernard Bichot. Today the producer is one of Burgundy’s most respected, making wines from both its own vineyards and with purchased fruit.