2007 Chablis Moutonne

From the Long-Depaquit monopole that straddles Vaudesir and Preuses, the 2007 Chablis La Moutonne smells bracingly of lemon zest, fresh ginger, salt spray, orange blossom, and musky, narcissus-like floral perfume. Intriguingly maritime in its suggestions of brine and oyster shell, this struggles to balance richness of texture with a deep sense of mineral dimension, citrus pip and fruit pit bitterness, and invigorating notes of citrus and spice, all characteristics that linger impressively. Like most great Chablis - or for that matter, great Burgundy in general - this prompts you to wonder how such a range of sensations could even come from grapes. And while it wears its concentration on its sleeve and at the expense of charm or seduction, it may well be destined for greatness. Certainly I would not hesitate to plan on following it for the better part of a decade. Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot - like a number of Chablis growers - began picking September 6; took a few days pause soon thereafter; and finished around mid-month. Given the higher acid levels, he elected to slightly more actively work those lees that were retained, one of several instances I noted in Chablis this vintage that countered a general trend in recent years toward lees passivity in Burgundy. Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

Captivating nose combines citrus peel, smoke, minerals, floral honey and hazelnut, all lifted by violet and lavender high notes. Dense, sweet and vibrant, with terrific energy to the peach and mineral flavors. Finishes long and stony but not at all hard, with lovely fruit. This will get honeyed and waxy with six or seven years in the bottle. Mangenot notes that this is suppler than the 2004 was at the same stage.

Owned by Albert Bichot. Less peppery than its neighbour Vaudésir. More mineral and greater linear power with a light saltiness on the aftertaste. Very fresh mid palate and pure clean finish. Oak seems to show less than on the Vaudésir. (JH)