1989 Trevallon

During my recent stint in Burgundy, one private dinner veered away from the Côte d’Or courtesy of this 1989 Côteaux d’Aix en Provence Les Baux, which lies in the shadow of the more heralded 1990. That said, it has lasted admirably over three decades. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Syrah picked between 11 and 23 September, no de-stemming and matured in barrels and foudres . It has a rustic nose with plenty of wild fennel, thyme, sorrel and earthy/gravelly scents. While the fruit has receded, it is certainly not out of sight. The palate follows in a similar vein with light tannins and quite potent garrigue notes infusing remnants of red fruit. There’s just a touch of volatility noticeable on the slightly herbaceous finish. Personally, I would not leave bottles too much longer, but well-kept examples will certainly give pleasure.