2005 Gevrey Chambertin Petite Chapelle

Deep garnet. Still has some blackish hue about it. Rich with lots to get your teeth into – rather like old-fashioned burgundy, it's so concentrated. Masses of sweet, spicy undertow and length. Should go nicely with our duck and peas. (JR)

Bernard’s son Loic, 25, owns this distinctive parcel apparently. Lucky chap.) Very perfumed and compact – almost feminine. Fine boned. Elegant, supple, as though it will be ready for drinking quite early. Very very fine with great finesse even if not massive density. (JR)

There will be around 125 cases of 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle, which smells of blackberry, plum, game and black truffle, offering lovely inner-mouth perfume with sweetness of flowers and black fruits set against cyanic fruit pit bitterness and chalky minerality. The tannins are very refined, and overall the wine comes off elegantly, even with a certain delicacy. I suspect this will go into a quite austere mode soon after bottling and be worth revisiting in 6-8 years. (The 2004, by the way – picked almost berry-by-berry – displayed pure, fresh fruit, with flattering fat and glycerin uncommon for that vintage, and a firmer 2004 Lavaux St.-Jacques was also very fine.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.