2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese

Schug insists that the 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese still represents an attempt to pick around and avoid the botrytis that was accumulating in October, and that particularly in this vineyard, lightly-desiccated golden fruit with enhanced acidity was a factor. That explains the vividly fresh apple aroma (along with honeysuckle) and the juicy palate impression on display here. In the mouth – where lightly-baked apple and vanilla cream are the principle themes – this is impressively rich without being at all heavy, and honey and spice notes well up that I would at least associate with incipient botrytis. All the while though, there persists a fresh fruit juiciness alongside the creamy richness. Baked apple and vanilla custard scented with flowers and brown spices make for a lovely and distinctive, if quite sweet, finish. I suspect that this portrait of a great site is one of those Mosel Rieslings that will hold its harmonious juxtaposition of richness and lightness, creaminess and freshness for the better part of three decades. But I would personally leave it alone for at least a decade simply to allow its youthful sweetness to subside. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255

Very appetising, round and leafy with currant bush aromas. Broad, rich and charming. (JR)