2003 Volnay Taillepieds

Good deep medium red. Reticent aromas of minerals and smoke. Dense but less sweet than the Champans; less expressive and open today. But this solid, concentrated wine is not especially extreme in the context of the year ("not syrah-like," as Villette put it). In fact, this is all pinot on the finish, which features firm tannins and good verve.

I loved the plummy, red cherry syrup-scented nose of the medium to dark ruby-colored 2003 Volnay Taillepieds (red). This forward, hugely expressive wine broadens on the palate to display gloriously sweet cherries, licorice, blueberries, and plums. Exquisitely ripe and fresh, it is medium-bodied, satin-textured, and possesses a lengthy finish that reveals additional layers of fruit as well as copious quantities of ripe tannin. My sense is that this wine will shut down after bottling before returning with a vengeance. Drink it between 2010 and 2020. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company., New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Medium red. Subtle, lively aromas of red cherry, raspberry and flowers. Sweet on entry, then juicy and stylish in the mid-palate, with minerality contributing to the wine's definition. A rather discreet, reserved wine but one that offers considerable early charm. Shows a lovely combination of power and finesse as well as decent aging potential.