2012 Marsannay Les Longeroies

The 2012 Marsannay Les Longeroies is beautifully pointed in the glass. Game, smoke, dried flowers, orange peel and white pepper are some of many aromas and flavors that inform this beautifully chiseled, articulate Burgundy. Sweet floral notes add dimension to the perfumed, highly appealing finish.

The 2012 Marsannay Les Longeroies comes from one young and one old plot of vines around 40-years old raised in 20% new oak. It has a well-defined quite mineral, “correct” bouquet that has an attractive linearity. The palate has a tannic backbone with a good grip in the mouth. Quite masculine with a long sturdy finish, this is very fine and should age well over 4-6 years. Things are certainly changing at this domaine. When Arnaud took over I felt that the level of new oak was excessive, superfluous to requirements given the fruit bestowed by his family’s prodigious holdings. And he was refreshingly candid about this when we sat down in his offices to taste through his 2012s, where he told me that he is now dialing down the new oak in order to express the terroir. That said, there is still more new wood here that say, Armand Rousseau just round the corner, but tasting through these 2012s I would say that the wood is better assimilated than previous vintage and yes, the terroir does shine through. “The harvest began on 23 September,” Arnaud explained. “It lasted for about 9 days in Gevrey and then finishing off with the Bourgogne Rouge. We had a lot of millerandage. Everything was de-stemmed this year. We left the wine on its lees in barrel and might sulfur in two or three months. We’ll also transfer the wine in to stainless steel to marry everything together. But the end result is that we are about 40% down on average.” Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400 and Fields Morris & Verdin, Justerini & Brooks, Berry Brothers & Rudd all in the UK.

Here the nose is fresher and a bit more elegant as well with its airy and cool red currant and humus suffused aromas. The attractively detailed middle weight flavors exude a fine minerality on the delicious, dusty and persistent finish. There is a bit more structure and this should reward a few years of cellar time. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2017+