2005 Marsannay Les Longeroies

The Mortet family acquired three years ago the sizeable acreage that informs their 2005 Marsannay Les Longeroies, but Arnaud Mortet reports that the 40-year-old vines had not been well cared for, so a few years of attention will be needed before they and this site show their true potential. Strong plum- and cherry pit and black chocolate bitterness as well as stone and iodine minerality mark the rather spare personality of this wine (which was especially late in finishing its fermentations), but it is undeniably well-concentrated and pure, with the potential for blossoming given a few years in the cellar. Taking over this domaine in his mid-twenties, Arnaud Mortet appears poised to bottle a superb collection from his father’s final harvest. The crew took a brief second pass over certain parcels, he relates, and the bunches from some young vines required triage, but otherwise the fruit was perfect at first picking. Malolactic fermentations continued well into last autumn. Mortet emphasizes that he will continue a search for elegance and refinement begun in recent years, with a lighter touch during fermentation, and at least for vintage 2006 the employment of some previously-used barrels in order to de-emphasize wood at the modest end of his price spectrum. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.

(tasted at the end of its secondary fermentation) Bright ruby-red. Spicy blackberry, minerals and licorice on the pure, expressive nose. Juicy, fresh and tight, with dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors. In a lean style but nicely balanced and not dry. Finishes with good density and length.

The Mortet family acquired three years ago the sizeable acreage that informs their 2005 Marsannay Les Longeroies, but Arnaud Mortet reports that the 40-year-old vines had not been well cared for, so a few years of attention will be needed before they and this site show their true potential. Strong plum- and cherry pit and black chocolate bitterness as well as stone and iodine minerality mark the rather spare personality of this wine (which was especially late in finishing its fermentations), but it is undeniably well-concentrated and pure, with the potential for blossoming given a few years in the cellar. ||Taking over this domaine in his mid-twenties, Arnaud Mortet appears poised to bottle a superb collection from his father’s final harvest. The crew took a brief second pass over certain parcels, he relates, and the bunches from some young vines required triage, but otherwise the fruit was perfect at first picking. Malolactic fermentations continued well into last autumn. Mortet emphasizes that he will continue a search for elegance and refinement begun in recent years, with a lighter touch during fermentation, and at least for vintage 2006 the employment of some previously-used barrels in order to de-emphasize wood at the modest end of his price spectrum. Wine Advocate.April, 2007