2007 Meursault Les Tillets

Lemon, fresh apricot, chalk dust, and somehow cooling high-toned green herbal notes in the nose of Javillier’s 2007 Meursault Les Tillets lead to a shimmering palate exchange of bright citrus, put fruits, chalk and salt. This wine displayed exceptional buoyancy and poise even in the 2006 vintage, and in a vintage where those characteristics are far more common, it’s little wonder that this 2007 reveals such lift, liveliness, invigoration and elegance. It also evinces a flattering creaminess. I would anticipate at least 6-8 years of reward here. Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93