2006 Meursault Les Tillets

In keeping with its typical personality, Javillier’s 2006 Meursault Les Tillets exhibits the buoyancy, minerality, lift, and precision of fruit and mineral flavors that the Clos du Cromin lacks. Even here though, litchi, brown spices, and candied lemon rind suggest the exotic ripeness of the vintage. There is a patisserie-like aspect of buttered pastry filled with spiced fruits, with a citrus sauce, complimented by bitter notes of fruit pit and toasted nuts. The wine’s lush texture together with ample juicy freshness and intriguing finishing mineral nuances makes for immediate delight. But one can anticipate at lest 5-7 years of positive bottle evolution. The 2005 Tillets is especially impressive as well. The ever-experimental Patrick Javillier continues to pursue a unique approach, vinifying and elevating separate lots from each cru that in turn emphasize fruit, minerality, mouth feel, and structure; then assembling them late. (For a long time, Javillier distinguished as “Cuvee Speciale,” bottlings done later and without filtration. But in 2006, no such distinction was observed, and all of the wines are untiltered.) In 2003, Javillier adopted the contrarian viewpoint that the wines needed ample battonage and time on the lees to insure a structure that would compensate for low acidity, but in 2006 he felt the need to rack and bottle somewhat earlier than usual to preserve freshness and – in his words – “Burgundian character.” While he touts the virtues of this vintage for early drinking – and this is one address where 2004 and 2005 appear today to have the edge in quality, including potential longevity – samples of several of Javillier’s young 2006s that had taken on air for a day were, perhaps tellingly, more revelatory and satisfying that those freshly uncorked. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Soft citrus fruits, hazelnut and butter on the nose. Sweet, glyceral and seamless, with a lush texture leavened by sound acidity. Creamy in the middle but distinctly firm-edged on the finish. Javillier believes that the 2006s will close down by the end of this year, if not sooner.

Very rich and concentrated – really intense and explosive. Sturdy and workmanlike – not to be overlooked. Very fair workmanship at a very fair price. (JR)