2000 Musigny

(with thanks to Mike and Cathy During). A fabulously complex nose that is just now beginning to display the initial hints of secondary aromas of floral black, seductive fruit trimmed in earth, anise, dried herbs and a touch of smoke and leads to medium-full flavors that offer exceptional focus and such richness that this seems almost liqueur-like, all wrapped in a hugely long finish. As is typical of the Mugnier style that despite all the fireworks, this manages to remain discreet, harmonious and perfectly balanced. While there is plenty going on, this is not a particularly big Musigny yet it is superbly refined, classy and extremely pure. Class in a glass and this delivers knock out quality for the vintage. This could actually be approached now though there is clearly more to come and it seems a shame to rush things unduly. Note that I have slightly upgraded my score and extended the suggested drinking window by a few years. Consistent notes.

Mugnier’s millennial Musigny Grand Cru (that is my tongue-twister of the day) has a transparent bouquet with brilliant delineation, a nose where the spaces between the notes are as important as the notes themselves. Light, brambly red fruit and cold limestone: not complex but very focused. The palate is pure and harmonious with no rough edges, a featherweight but athletic Musigny, with more persistency than the nose suggests. This is a delightful grand cru, although I would not cellar it long-term. Drink now-2019. Tasted November 2013. Feb 2014, www.robertparker.com

Full red, but not darker than the Amoureuses. Sappy, deep aromas of raspberry, minerals and flowers. Offers a very ripe flavor of liqueur-like raspberry but is still quite tightly wound and dominated by its structure. More austere, even monolithic today, and showing less detail than the Amoureuses, perhaps because this was the last wine to be racked. Best now on the long, subtle, stony back end.