1997 Palazzi

This is an impressively-endowed effort from a new producer. The question mark concerning the 1997 Palazzi is because the bottle I tasted, while possessing a saturated purple color and gobs of sweet black cherry and berry fruit backed up by toasty new oak, also had a level of volatile acidity that was at the limit of my tolerance. Volatile acidity can add complexity, and it is certainly one of the hallmarks of some of this century's greatest wines, but it is surprising to find this much volatile acidity in such a young wine. The 1997 Palazzi possesses loads of glycerin, a thick, chewy texture, and superb fruit. It should evolve nicely for 12-15 years. If the volatile acidity does not become any more exaggerated, this wine will be controversial and thought-provoking, yet undeniably delicious. This estate is an impressive newcomer to be watched closely. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000