2008 Chambolle Musigny Les Sentiers

Confitured black raspberry in the nose of the Groffier 2008 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers anticipate a more seamless ripeness than possessed by some of its stable mates, although at the same time this possesses a firmer feel and more obvious underlying structure, along with some of the oiliness noted in the corresponding Hauts Doix. Stimulating tartness and salinity, along with herbal pungency and black tea-like tannic grit (and grip), promise a show worth following for at least half a dozen years, and in the best case one will be rewarded with a dynamic display of carnal, mineral, and berry-intense Chambolle virtues. Nicolas Groffier seems not to have been bashful when it comes to extracting flavors from the family’s 2008 grapes (harvested in a mere 5 days, finishing October 1), despite what he emphasizes was the tiny size of both yields and berries. When it comes to elevage, though, he was cautious even at a risk he acknowledges of wines that might show stiffly and reductively for a while after bottling, having racked the young 2008s into tank after just shy of 12 months, which for some lots meant almost immediately after the conclusion of malo. (Bottling sessions were in December and February). Natural alcohols in 2008 were in the upper 12’s (the 2007s were very slightly higher) and typically adjusted by about a quarter of a degree. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

Good deep red-ruby color. Nicely primary aromas of black cherry, blackberry, minerals and violet. Sweet and full but also much sappier than the Hauts-Doix, with nicely integrated acidity and a complex spiciness leavening the wine's ripeness. Showing beautifully today.

Bright crimson. Smudgy nose. Lots of sweet fruit. Very charming and fruity and well balanced. Straightforward. One of the juiciest 2008s I have come across. Assertive finish. (JR)