2003 l'Eglise Clinet
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Tasting notes
The 2003 l’Eglise-Clinet is one of the standout Pomerols from what was a very challenging growing season for the appellation. Perversely, when juxtaposing bottle and magnum on one occasion, I preferred the former. It offers luscious black cherries, red plum and pot-pourri on the nose that disguises the heat of that summer. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, lightly spiced with traits of cumin that I discerned previously, leading to a rather decadent but irresistible finish. Superb.
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The Château l'Eglise-Clinet 2003 was served ex-château from bottle and magnum. Alongside the 2003 Château Lafleur, it represents one of the best Pomerol wines of the vintage. Why? Because as Denis himself explained, the vineyard naturally produced low pH that counterbalanced the summer heat. It was actually the bottle that has the best bouquet, lively and vibrant for the vintage, extremely well defined and youthful after 12 years. Macerated dark cherries, red plum and incense all soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, slightly savory red berry fruit that is very spicy, white pepper and cumin. There is fine delineation on the finish and great length. It does not quite deliver the brilliant showing of previous bottles, but it deserves a round of applause. This is one of the few recent wines from the estate that I would prefer to drink in its youth. Tasted March 2015.
In bottle. Durantou claims he always has low pH because he stopped using fertilisers ages ago. The fruit is juicier than the magnum and the whole has more energy. But there is a bit of heat and lots of dried fruit and spice. Drier on the palate. (JR)
About the producer
Ch. l'Eglise-Clinet is one of the most unassuming wine estates in Bordeaux. You'd probably drive past it if you didn't have prior knowledge of its vinous output. There's no ostentatious gateway nor sweeping gravel drive.