1999 l'Eglise Clinet

Denis Durantou explained that analytically, the Château l'Eglise-Clinet 1999 is exactly the same as the 1998, although it is completely different in taste. He also said that it was the last vintage that he had to chaptalize (a little). Poured from magnum, it is clearly more mild-mannered on the nose than the preceding vintage, but still extremely well defined with blackberry and briary scents, a hint of black truffle and incense following later. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannin. The acidity here is well judged, not unlike a superior and more substantial version of the 1997, with commendable precision on the truffle-tinged finish. This can be broached now, but unlike the 1997, this has another decade or more of drinking pleasure to give. Tasted March 2015.

Magnum. Same analysis as 1998. IPT 78, for example. But Denis Durantou points out how different the wine is, and admits that, although he is against decanting because he is worried about the deposit, he might have decanted this vintage. This was his last wine with less than 13% alcohol. The last vintage he chaptalised (which he did parcel by parcel – especially the mixed plantings which he pulled out mainly in 2001). Dark crimson. Very tight indeed on the nose. And overall a bit monumental. A bit stolid. No excess of charm. Very dry and introvert. No fireworks. A little sour on the end. Clean but pretty dry finish. Some spice. Pretty youthful. Not very expressive at this point. (JR)